When I photograph at my studio, I usually collaborate with young, talented make-up artists/hair stylists, and Breanna Leigh is one of them.
A couple of months ago, Breanna came to my studio together with her friend/model Jessica, and she put together for Jessica a natural look with wet looking hair. Breanna said that she << wanted the model, Jessica, to appear as if she just stepped out of a bath and was ready for a day of relaxation>>. Yes, because when you really take a bath right before going to sleep, you look all messy, with your hair too fluffy in the wrong spots, and visible rings under your eyes (I’m talking about myself of course, not you). Instead, if you want to look relaxed and blessed by a natural and effortless beauty, here is what you should do:
MAKE UP AND HAIR TUTORIAL by Breanna
– I started off by cleansing, toning, and moisturizing Jessica’s face, in order to create a taunt, dewy feel. Also, this serves as a great primer for the makeup.
For the first look:
1) I choose to apply a medium conceal under Jessica’s eyes, chin, on the bridge of her nose, and around her nostrils. Jessica did not need any color corrector, so the concealer was simply to brighten the under eye area. Also, concealer was applied on the bridge of her nose to act as a highlighter.
*Tip: when choosing concealer, pick one that is 1-3 shades lighter than your skin color.
2) After concealer, I moved on to her foundation. I applied her foundation half with a brush and the other half with my fingers. I applied the foundation evenly over her face with the brush, and then wherever I felt needed more coverage, I patted extra on with my fingers and blended thoroughly. I then took a foundation, one that was a shade lighter than the one I used all over her face, and added it in spots where I wanted more brightness on her face. I applied the lighter foundation in the space between her brows, down the bridge of her nose, above/under her lip, and on her cheek bones.
*Tip: When choosing a foundation, pick a color you think may be yours, apply it to the jaw line. If the color disappears, that is the correct colors for you, if not, just try again!
3) I moved on to contouring and defining her cheeks. I took a highlighter pencil (which highlighted and added a glossy look) and applied that on the top of her cheek bones. I picked a blush that would look very natural on her, so pale pink was the color of choice. I applied the pale pink with a small blush brush and applied the majority of color on the apples of her cheeks and the blended it up towards her hair line.
*Tip: The richer your skin tone, the darker and richer your blush can be.
I contoured her cheeks with a small, blunt brush and a bronzer that contained NO shimmer. Start contouring in the hallow part of her cheeks (you may request the model lightly suck in her cheeks to find this), and work your way up to the hairline, mean while staying right under where the blush was placed. After I achieved the amount I wanted, I went over the whole face with translucent power to set it.
*Tip: When contorting with a small, blunt brush, please note that you can easily create harsh dark lines on a model. To avoid this, be very light handed and build the contour up.
4) Moving on to eyes, I highlighted her brow bone with a highlighter pencil and dusted an eye shadow that was the same color as Jessica’s skin. I added a very light coat of mascara on both top and bottom lashes, and then followed that with a coat of clear mascara.
5) For Jessica’s brows, I wanted to keep her natural shape. To achieve this look, I took a brown brow pencil and lightly filled in areas that needed a fuller look.
*Tip: Use a brown pencil on its side instead of on the point, to avoid creating harsh lines.
6) Last were lips, where a simple clear gloss was added.
7) I went over the perimeter of Jessica’s face with large power brush and bronzer, in order to draw more attention to the middle of her face.
8) Right before she was going to shoot, I sprayed her face with a light mist of water.
For the second look:
10) I took a green/blue eye shadow and applied it close to her lash line.
1) For the look where Jessica’s hair is down, I wet the majority of her hair and applied curling custard; I let her natural waves take over and do what it wanted.
2) For her hair up, I through it in a messy bun, on top of her hair, and took out some hairs to frame her face.
(Although the curling custard did a fantastic job of keeping her hair looking wet, I still sprayed her hair with water throughout the shoot)
great tutorial, thanks Breanna!
if you try it, don’t hesitate to share your pictures here on TOtP!
saluti a tutti 🙂